Doors Open - St. Johns, Newfoundland

During the annual Doors Open event in St. John's, several venues are open to the public without charge.  When my eldest granddaughter said she wanted to sleep over at my house, I thought it was a great opportunity for us to participate in "Doors Open."

Given that she is three years old, I chose the Railway Museum as the event of the day. We were up early and on Signal Hill with our breakfast in hand at 8 a.m.  We had breakfast high atop the city and she loved it! "I can see everything!"

She wanted to go into the "castle." With a little luck on our side, Cabot Tower opened at 8:30 and we made our way up the tricky, "scary" winding staircase to the top. We were on our way down when a gentleman was heading up to change the flag. He asked us if we would like to go. Of course!  We followed him out onto the deck and he asked my granddaughter if she would like to help raise the flag.

What a special thing to do!  In no time under his tutelage she learned the hand over hand technique and became a real helper. The man was so kind and even carried her down over those darned steps.  We had already started our day with a "bang."

We then, at her behest, had a walk along a trail. After which, we headed to the Railway Museum.  It was not open yet so we sat on a bench beside the display train pictured above. We made up stories and I tried to intertwine a little real history in mine. It never hurts to learn something along the way. Well, from her story, I learned something, too. I surely didn't know that Barbie came from an outport!

In no time the doors to the musuem opened and in we went. She wondered if the manikins might come to life. I told her to use her imagination and maybe she could see the people moving about their activities. We chose to do a walkabout on our own rather than join the tour. After all, she is three. I gave her some info and she was able to ask questions without bothering anyone else. Success! It was a great experience. She wanted to go to another musuem.

We tried the Johnson' Geo Centre back at Signal Hill, but it didn't open until noon. While she suggested that we wait, I talked her into going to another place. Off we went to Commissariat House. I thought she might enjoy seeing the old house. Great choice!

When we arrived, we went to the Carriage House where they gave her a paper printer's hat and helped her put her name on it with sticky letters. Then we went in front of the house and another helper dressed her up in a period dress and hat. It was such a special experience for her. She became demur on the outside and bursting with excitement on the inside. Wow! How many special things could happen in one morning?

We then started our walkabout in the house. In the first room we came upon quills, ink and paper set up for use. A while back when we went for a walk, we found a quill in the trail. I guess I have not totally lost my grounding in education because instead of talking about bird-related stories with the quill, I told her about "back in the day" when people used to write with quills. And now there it was right there for her to try. We worked our way through the house and talked about the feather bed, the wood fired stove and the boot jack which the guide demonstrated. She looked up at me and asked, "Where is the bathroom?" I asked the guide to show her the potty and its holder. Well, of course, a flood of "why" questions followed that led to more discussion about not having running water or electricity.

It was a morning of wonder and excitement. Amid all of the fun, I'm sure there was a great amount of learning. What a wonderful program...."Doors Open." Every one of the employees at every venue was kind, pleasant and helpful. They made the morning extra special. I was surprised that there weren't more people out enjoying these attractions, but then again, we did start our day quite early.

Bravo to "Doors Open." It was a morning to remember!

SS Sposa -Conception Harbour, Newfoundland

While birdwatching  is really my passion, I always get a thrill when I come upon a treasure from the past, totally unexpectedly.  This was certainly the case with the SS Sposa rising above the water line in Bacon Cove, Newfoundland.

Last week a birding friend and I were scouring the Avalon North. We took a side trip to Kitchuses, a first for me. I trustingly put my faith in her knowledge of the area and drove on as per her directions. We climbed uphill and rounded a bend and there in Conception Harbour sat this great old

whaling vessel.

Automatically, my foot hit the brake and I pulled into the first available driveway. Only half off the road in a tricky location, I quickly took a couple of shots. In less than two minutes the conditions went from somewhat bright to a wall of fine snow falling between me and the target. Due to the precarious parking spot, I didn't have time to wait out the minor squall. I took in a deep breath and wondered about the story associated with this old ship.

I have since learned that the SS Sposa was one of a fleet of five whaling vessels, that formed the last of the largest whaling flotillas to hunt the waters off Newfoundland. Two other whalers (SS Southern Chief and SS Southern Foam)  rest in the waters off Bacon Cove. When the whaling industry died, so did the need for these ships.  These ships were owned by Captain J. Borgen and initially were destined to be dismantled for scrap metal. Three of the five ships were brought into this harbour. It was then decided to sink the vessels in deeper water. Two were hauled offshore and, indeed, sunk. While the SS Sposa was awaiting its turn, a storm hit the area and sank it in its place. It has been a part of the landscape ever since. It is proffered that this happened around 1964. Some residents love the wreckage for its historical significance of a time when whaling was very much a part of Newfoundland culture (although not this particular community) and others think it is an eyesore and should be removed.

While I saw no extraordinary birds on this drive, I did delve into a history of this province that I know very little about. There are tour groups in Newfoundland who provide diving tours to many of the shipwrecks that fill the waters around the coastlines of Newfoundland, including this one.  There is even a Geo caching event that takes place around these sunken ships.

This island in the North Atlantic is forever a treasure trove for birdwatchers, historians, divers, archaeologists, geologists, scientists, photographers, campers and people who just want to step out of time and embrace the beauty and intrigue of yesteryear.

Source of Information: Scratching The Surface: The Story of the Conception Harbour Ship Wrecks and the Last Whaler By Dennis Flynn  (This is a great article and can be "googled.")

Note:  Please see the comment attached by a relative of the Captain of the ship.

There was some underwater research completed in the summer of 2013 that seems to change everything. VOCM reported the following story on their web site on October 21, 2013.

"A decades-old shipwreck mystery in Conception Harbour has officially been solved. For years, books, magazines, and newspaper accounts of the whaling wrecks have attributed contradictory names to the vessels. But now, the Shipwreck Preservation Society of Newfoundland and Labrador say they can set the record straight. Neil Burgess says through the 1960s, five whaling ships frequented Conception Harbour. Two he says were towed away, and three sunk at the wharf. The confusion surrounded which ones were which. Burgess says through underwater measurements and design details, they were able to make the match.

He says most people are probably familiar with the one ship on the beach in Conception Harbour, for years referred to incorrectly as the S.S Sposa. It has now been identified as the Charcot. Two other ships in about five feet of water behind the Charcot have been identified as the S.S Southern Foam and the S.S Sukha.

The vessels are about 120-130 feet long and which, for the most part, have been stripped of all their monetary worth. The study of the shipwrecks this summer was part of a larger project of the town to develop adventure tourism facilities. Burgess says for divers the wrecks are easy to get to because they are in shallow water close to a roadway. He says the vessels are in remarkably good shape given their age. For example, the masts are still intact, and the cabins can still be seen."

This article begs the question: Where were the other two towed and was one of them the S.S. Sposa?

Top Coastal Destination: Avalon Peninsula, Newfoundland

" National Geographic Traveler magazine has selected Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula as its top rated coastal destination.




The magazine’s November issue says the peninsula, the easternmost point in North America, is a "blustery realm" that is home to "brightly painted fishing villages and the lively city of St. John’s."

The magazine says visiting the Avalon is "like going back in time — close-knit communities, a strong local culture reflected in music and art, and unspoiled scenery." http://thechronicleherald.ca/Canada/1208376.html

This confirms what I have come to believe over the summer. I have travelled extensively around the Avalon and accumulated many images of the rugged coastline, lighthouses, fishing communities and so much more. Some of the sights are so breathtaking that little can compare. While I have many landscape photos that I may share over time through this site, I have chosen to show you a very unexpected and charming addition to my summer travel experience.

While driving to Witless Bay to go on a boat tour, I noticed a small brook in Mobile with several small boats on it. I hit the break right away. I am quite practiced at doing that because I have slammed on the breaks many times

when birdwatching. When I walked back to the brook, I was so surprised and pleased to see more than a dozen hand-crafted boat models. They were meticulously crafted. When I went down the embankment to get a better look, I was awestruck. There, built into the hillside, was this wonderful miniature fishing stage. There is so much detail showing the fisherman's work. The women are also actively involved in splitting, salting and drying the codfish. This is a wonderful little treasure found quite by accident. There is no fee nor fanfare, just an

artisan who loves his heritage and has chosen to share it in this way.

Two weeks later following a tour to Mistaken Point near Cape Race, I was driving back to the Trans Canada Highway when something small and unusual caught my eye. I hit those brakes again and returned to the spot. I couldn't believe it. Someone had crafted an entire miniature fishing village around a stream. The village had fishing stages, homes, outhouses, laundry handing on the line, a school, a church - everything you can imagine. It must have taken years to build this little community. There were no signs, no advertising, and no barriers. Visitors are welcome to take a stroll through this little community that sits on private property and must be a great source of owner-pride when visitors stand and stare.

It seems to be that these wonderfully crafted, three-dimensional works of art capture the real spirit of the people who inhabit the top coastal destination in the world.
 

Newfoundland

Arkansas or Newfoundland? Where is home? I grew up in Southeast Arkansas and spent only 18 years in the state. In 1972 I immigrated to Canada and came to Newfoundland where I have lived nearly 30 years. It is strange how I have spent almost double the amount of my life in Newfoundland and yet, when I go  to Arkansas I am Home.

What is it about our youth that attaches us to our surroundings so strongly? It has to be Nature because the family and friends are no longer there; the businesses no longer exist as they were; progress has taken over most favorite spots and the only pure remnants of yesteryear are the sights, sounds and smells of the natural surroundings.

The swamp is not akin to a trickling brook. It is expansive and filled with turtles, snakes, alligators, brim, crappie and catfish. The edges of the swamp are teeming with birds and other wildlife. It is alive, and it is the same today as I remember it so many years ago when I used to get in a small motor boat to go fishing.

The air around the swamp is still, hot and humid. The insects hover just above the water and tease the fish below. The silence of the swamp is broken only by the croaking of the frogs, the splash of a turtle diving from a log or a snake falling from a limb. Each sound prompts the senses to be on alert to the potential dangers of the swamp - a natural rush.

And then there are the hallmark Cyprus Trees! There is something very peculiar and captivating about the tilting outcrop of all of those Cyprus Trees rising from beneath the water. The base of the trees resembles the shape of the dresses from the Antebellum South. Very fitting!

On this visit I found myself just standing, staring, smelling and listening to the swamp, and it was as if no time has passed since I hauled up a four pound catfish from its warm waters.

Seeing old friends can't equate that same feeling. Therein are the signs of time that serve to remind me of how many years have slipped away. Nature, on the other hand, grows more grand as it ages and births its young year after year, never looking any worse for the wear.

I think the sea to Newfoundlanders is much like the swamp for Arkansans. The sounds of the ebb and flow on the rocky beaches and the smell of the salt water must strike a similar chord to those who spent their youth around the shoreline, often too busy to consciously notice it. Nevertheless, the sights and sounds are being imprinted for later recall.

Perhaps, it is retirement that has given me a renewed sense of my surroundings. Now, I stop, look and listen to my surroundings instead of my watch. This time I captured images of my favorite places so that I can visit them any time I choose.

P.S. I added over 30 new species to my 2010 bird list. I have begun sorting them and will share them soon.